So, you’re diving into the world of 3D printing and wondering, “What’s the best filament for my prints?” Well, you’ve come to the right place! Choosing the right filament can make or break your print, and trust me, I’ve had my fair share of spaghetti messes and warped disasters. Let’s go over the most common types, what they’re good for, and whether they’ll be a dream or a nightmare to work with.
Note: the post contains affiliate links for filaments!
PLA – The Friendly Favorite
- Bed Temperature: 50-60°C
- Hot End Temperature: 180-220°C
- Nature Friendliness: Very (biodegradable, corn-based)
- Drying Need: Low, but benefits from occasional drying
- Drying Temperature: 40-50°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
- User Friendliness: Extremely easy—perfect for beginners
PLA (Polylactic Acid) is like the golden retriever of filaments—friendly, reliable, and always there when you need it. It prints easily, doesn’t require a heated bed (though it helps), and sticks well to most surfaces. It’s biodegradable, which is a nice plus for the eco-conscious crowd. However, it’s not the toughest filament out there; leave a PLA print in your car on a hot summer day, and you’ll come back to a warped mess.
PETG – The Best of Both Worlds
- Bed Temperature: 60-80°C
- Hot End Temperature: 220-250°C
- Nature Friendliness: Decent (recyclable, but not biodegradable)
- Drying Need: Medium (absorbs moisture over time)
- Drying Temperature: 55-65°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
- User Friendliness: Moderate—easier than ABS, trickier than PLA
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) is the middle ground between PLA and ABS. It’s stronger and more temperature-resistant than PLA, but much easier to print than ABS. PETG prints have a slight glossy finish, making them look premium right off the printer. The only downside? It’s stringier than a ball of yarn in a kitten’s paws, so dialing in retraction settings is key.
ABS – The Strong, but Stubborn One
- Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
- Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
- Nature Friendliness: Not great (petroleum-based, not biodegradable)
- Drying Need: Low
- Drying Temperature: 70-75°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
- User Friendliness: Difficult—prone to warping and fumes
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is strong, impact-resistant, and used in everything from LEGO bricks to car parts. It’s great for functional parts that need to take a beating, but it’s a bit of a diva when it comes to printing. Warping is a constant battle unless you have an enclosure, and the fumes? Let’s just say you’ll want a well-ventilated space unless you enjoy headaches.
ASA – ABS’s Weatherproof Cousin
- Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
- Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
- Nature Friendliness: Not great (similar to ABS)
- Drying Need: Low
- Drying Temperature: 80-85°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
- User Friendliness: Similar to ABS, but better for outdoor use
ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) is basically ABS, but with a superpower—it’s UV-resistant. That means it won’t turn yellow or brittle when left outside, making it a top choice for outdoor prints like garden fixtures and car accessories. It prints similarly to ABS, so if you can handle one, you can handle the other.
TPU – The Rubbery Rebel
- Bed Temperature: 40-60°C
- Hot End Temperature: 210-230°C
- Nature Friendliness: Not great (plastic-based, but durable)
- Drying Need: High (loves moisture)
- Drying Temperature: 40-45°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 3-4h
- User Friendliness: Challenging—flexible and tricky to feed
TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is flexible, meaning you can print things like phone cases, shoe soles, and even squishy stress toys. But printing TPU is like trying to squeeze toothpaste through a straw—it can be a struggle. You’ll need slow print speeds and a direct drive extruder works best. Once dialed in, though, TPU prints are incredibly durable and fun to play with.
Nylon – The Tough Guy with a Weakness
- Bed Temperature: 40-100°C – depends on the type of nylon!, see manufacturer recommendation!
- Hot End Temperature: 240-270°C
- Nature Friendliness: Poor (synthetic, non-biodegradable)
- Drying Need: Extremely high (absorbs moisture like a sponge)
- Drying Temperature: 70-95°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
- User Friendliness: Hard—requires high temps and careful handling
Nylon is one of the strongest 3D printing filaments available. It’s flexible, impact-resistant, and great for functional parts. The downside? It absorbs moisture ridiculously fast, making drying before printing essential. If you print with damp nylon, expect your print to hiss and bubble like a frying pan—definitely not what you want.
PC – The Ultimate Beast
- Bed Temperature: 90-120°C
- Hot End Temperature: 280-310°C
- Nature Friendliness: Poor (industrial-grade plastic)
- Drying Need: High
- Drying Temperature: 80-90°C
- Optimal Drying Length: 8-12h
- User Friendliness: Extremely difficult—high temperatures required
PC (Polycarbonate) is the king of strength and heat resistance. It’s used in bulletproof glass, safety goggles, and other high-performance applications. Printing PC is not for the faint of heart—you need a printer that can handle temperatures up to ~300°C, and even then, warping is a constant challenge. But if you need a part that can take serious abuse, PC is your go-to.
So, What’s the Best Filament for You?
If you’re just getting started, PLA is your best bet—it’s easy and forgiving. If you want something tougher, go for PETG. Need something strong and impact-resistant? ABS or ASA are solid choices (if you can handle the fumes). Want to print squishy stuff? TPU is your friend. And if you’re after high-performance materials, Nylon and PC are the power players—but be ready for a challenge.