Learning While Waiting: Exploring New 3D Printing Topics

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Even though our X1C was out of commission, we still wanted to keep the 3D printing spirit alive. So, we took this as an opportunity to dive deeper into the technology. Here are some fascinating topics we explored:

1. Advanced Slicer Settings

We thought we knew our slicer software pretty well, but there’s always more to learn! We dug into custom supports, variable layer heights, and optimizing print speeds for different materials. Let’s just say we’ve gained a new appreciation for how much slicing impacts print quality.

2. Filament Science: Beyond PLA and PETG

Sure, we’ve used plenty of PLA and PETG, but what about exotic filaments? We researched carbon fiber-infused filaments, TPU (for flexible prints), and even PEEK (which requires some serious heat). Now we can’t wait to experiment with them once our printer is back in action.

3. Multi-Material Printing and AMS Systems

Since the Bambu Lab X1C has an Automatic Material System (AMS), we took some time to really understand how it works and how to get the best out of multi-material printing. Turns out, there are so many creative possibilities—like printing in different colors without swapping spools manually.

4. Post-Processing Techniques

We also explored different ways to make prints look even better after they come off the bed. From sanding and painting to vapor smoothing for ABS, there’s a whole world of finishing techniques we can’t wait to try.

Summary

3d printing is an incredible technology which requires knowledge in many different topics. It is crucial to be up to date in most of them. What we can advise is to keep up with them.

The failure of a new BambuLab X1C – part 1

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Ah, the joys of 3D printing. One day, your Bambu Lab X1C is churning out beautiful, crisp prints like a dream, and the next? Well… let’s just say it starts acting like it has a mind of its own. That’s exactly what happened to us. What started as a minor issue with thin walls collapsing quickly spiraled into a full-blown case of “Why won’t anything print properly anymore?!”

If you’ve ever faced a situation where your printer goes from perfection to catastrophe overnight, you know the frustration. But instead of panicking (okay, maybe after panicking a little), we rolled up our sleeves and went full-on detective mode. Here’s what we tried, what worked (or didn’t), and where we ended up.

The First Sign of Trouble: Thin Walls Collapsing

The first red flag was when we printed a simple container model—nothing fancy, just a basic boardgame insert for Clank! Catacombs. But the walls were way too thin, and they collapsed like a soggy house of cards. At first, we thought, “Maybe it’s just a slicer issue?” You know, some setting we accidentally messed up.

So, we re-sliced the model, double-checked the wall thickness settings, and even tried printing a different design. But nope—same problem. And then things got worse.

The Snowball Effect: Failed First Layers

Soon, the printer wasn’t just struggling with thin walls; it was failing right from the get-go. Prints wouldn’t stick, the first layers were inconsistent, and some prints didn’t even start properly. That’s when we knew we had a real problem on our hands.

Now, if you’ve been 3D printing for a while, you know that first layers are everything. If the first layer goes wrong, the whole print is doomed. It was time to start troubleshooting.

The DIY Fixes: What We Tried

We went through the usual maintenance routine, step by step, hoping to breathe some life back into our X1C.

1. Cold Pulls – The Classic Unclogging Trick

A cold pull is a simple but effective way to clear out gunk from the hotend. We heated the nozzle, pushed filament through, let it cool slightly, and yanked it out to pull any debris along with it.

Did it work? Not really. It pulled out some residue, but the problem persisted. On to the next fix.

2. Hotend Deep Clean – The Fire Method

Alright, time to get a little more aggressive. We disassembled the hotend, heated up a piece of filament with a lighter, and used it to stick and pull out stubborn debris. It’s one of those old-school tricks that sometimes does wonders.

Success? Meh. Some filament chunks came out, but the printer still wasn’t happy. At this point, we were starting to get nervous.

3. Extruder Cleaning – Going Deeper

Next up, we tackled the extruder itself. Maybe there was filament dust or debris causing under-extrusion? We took it apart, gave it a deep clean, and reassembled it carefully.

Results? Nope. Still the same frustrating print failures. It was becoming clear that this wasn’t just a case of a dirty nozzle or extruder.

The Last Resort: Contacting the Seller

After exhausting every trick we found online, we had to accept the inevitable—it was time to reach out for professional help. We contacted our local seller, explained the issue, and now… we wait.

The waiting game is the worst, especially when you’ve got projects lined up and a printer that refuses to cooperate. But sometimes, 3D printers just need a deeper repair that goes beyond routine maintenance.

Lessons Learned (So Far)

This experience has been a rollercoaster, but it’s taught us a few important lessons:

Even top-tier printers like the Bambu Lab X1C can run into issues. No printer is invincible, no matter how good it is.
Regular maintenance is crucial. Even though our fixes didn’t solve the problem, keeping the hotend and extruder clean can prevent smaller issues from turning into bigger ones.
Sometimes, you just need outside help. There’s no shame in reaching out to experts when troubleshooting hits a dead end.

Have You Had Similar Issues? Let’s Talk!

If you’ve ever faced a printing disaster like this, we’d love to hear your experience! Have you found any fixes that worked? Do you have a go-to method for troubleshooting stubborn print failures? Drop your thoughts in the comments—we’re all in this together!

The Ultimate Guide to 3D Printing Filaments: What’s Best for Your Prints?

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So, you’re diving into the world of 3D printing and wondering, “What’s the best filament for my prints?” Well, you’ve come to the right place! Choosing the right filament can make or break your print, and trust me, I’ve had my fair share of spaghetti messes and warped disasters. Let’s go over the most common types, what they’re good for, and whether they’ll be a dream or a nightmare to work with.

Note: the post contains affiliate links for filaments!

PLA – The Friendly Favorite

Bed Temperature: 50-60°C
Hot End Temperature: 180-220°C
Nature Friendliness: Very (biodegradable, corn-based)
Drying Need: Low, but benefits from occasional drying
Drying Temperature: 40-50°C
Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
User Friendliness: Extremely easy—perfect for beginners

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is like the golden retriever of filaments—friendly, reliable, and always there when you need it. It prints easily, doesn’t require a heated bed (though it helps), and sticks well to most surfaces. It’s biodegradable, which is a nice plus for the eco-conscious crowd. However, it’s not the toughest filament out there; leave a PLA print in your car on a hot summer day, and you’ll come back to a warped mess.

Buy PLA from Amazon

Buy PLA from Sunlu

PETG – The Best of Both Worlds

Bed Temperature: 60-80°C
Hot End Temperature: 220-250°C
Nature Friendliness: Decent (recyclable, but not biodegradable)
Drying Need: Medium (absorbs moisture over time)
Drying Temperature: 55-65°C
Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
User Friendliness: Moderate—easier than ABS, trickier than PLA

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) is the middle ground between PLA and ABS. It’s stronger and more temperature-resistant than PLA, but much easier to print than ABS. PETG prints have a slight glossy finish, making them look premium right off the printer. The only downside? It’s stringier than a ball of yarn in a kitten’s paws, so dialing in retraction settings is key.

Buy PETG from Amazon

Buy PETG from Sunlu

ABS – The Strong, but Stubborn One

Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
Nature Friendliness: Not great (petroleum-based, not biodegradable)
Drying Need: Low
Drying Temperature: 70-75°C
Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
User Friendliness: Difficult—prone to warping and fumes

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is strong, impact-resistant, and used in everything from LEGO bricks to car parts. It’s great for functional parts that need to take a beating, but it’s a bit of a diva when it comes to printing. Warping is a constant battle unless you have an enclosure, and the fumes? Let’s just say you’ll want a well-ventilated space unless you enjoy headaches.

Buy ABS from Amazon

Buy ABS from Sunlu

ASA – ABS’s Weatherproof Cousin

Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
Nature Friendliness: Not great (similar to ABS)
Drying Need: Low
Drying Temperature: 80-85°C
Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
User Friendliness: Similar to ABS, but better for outdoor use

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) is basically ABS, but with a superpower—it’s UV-resistant. That means it won’t turn yellow or brittle when left outside, making it a top choice for outdoor prints like garden fixtures and car accessories. It prints similarly to ABS, so if you can handle one, you can handle the other.

Buy ASA from Amazon

Buy ASA from Sunlu

TPU – The Rubbery Rebel

Bed Temperature: 40-60°C
Hot End Temperature: 210-230°C
Nature Friendliness: Not great (plastic-based, but durable)
Drying Need: High (loves moisture)
Drying Temperature: 40-45°C
Optimal Drying Length: 3-4h
User Friendliness: Challenging—flexible and tricky to feed

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is flexible, meaning you can print things like phone cases, shoe soles, and even squishy stress toys. But printing TPU is like trying to squeeze toothpaste through a straw—it can be a struggle. You’ll need slow print speeds and a direct drive extruder works best. Once dialed in, though, TPU prints are incredibly durable and fun to play with.

Buy TPU from Amazon

Buy TPU from Sunlu

Nylon – The Tough Guy with a Weakness

Bed Temperature: 40-100°C – depends on the type of nylon!, see manufacturer recommendation!
Hot End Temperature: 240-270°C
Nature Friendliness: Poor (synthetic, non-biodegradable)
Drying Need: Extremely high (absorbs moisture like a sponge)
Drying Temperature: 70-95°C
Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
User Friendliness: Hard—requires high temps and careful handling

Nylon is one of the strongest 3D printing filaments available. It’s flexible, impact-resistant, and great for functional parts. The downside? It absorbs moisture ridiculously fast, making drying before printing essential. If you print with damp nylon, expect your print to hiss and bubble like a frying pan—definitely not what you want.

Buy Nylon from Amazon

Buy Nylon from Sunlu

PC – The Ultimate Beast

Bed Temperature: 90-120°C
Hot End Temperature: 280-310°C
Nature Friendliness: Poor (industrial-grade plastic)
Drying Need: High
Drying Temperature: 80-90°C
Optimal Drying Length: 8-12h
User Friendliness: Extremely difficult—high temperatures required

PC (Polycarbonate) is the king of strength and heat resistance. It’s used in bulletproof glass, safety goggles, and other high-performance applications. Printing PC is not for the faint of heart—you need a printer that can handle temperatures up to ~300°C, and even then, warping is a constant challenge. But if you need a part that can take serious abuse, PC is your go-to.

Buy PC from Amazon

Buy PC from Sunlu

So, What’s the Best Filament for You?

If you’re just getting started, PLA is your best bet—it’s easy and forgiving. If you want something tougher, go for PETG. Need something strong and impact-resistant? ABS or ASA are solid choices (if you can handle the fumes). Want to print squishy stuff? TPU is your friend. And if you’re after high-performance materials, Nylon and PC are the power players—but be ready for a challenge.

Buy Filaments from Sunlu

Why Every 3D Printer Owner Ends Up Printing a Benchy (And Loving It)

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So, you’ve got yourself a 3D printer. Maybe you’re fresh out of the box, still staring at the user manual like it’s written in an alien language. Or maybe you’ve been at this for a while, tinkering, troubleshooting, and occasionally yelling at your machine like it owes you money. Either way, at some point, you’ll find yourself hitting “print” on one of the most iconic 3D models of all time: the 3DBenchy.

Yes, that adorable little tugboat.

It’s practically a rite of passage in the 3D printing world. But why? Why does every printer owner, from the total newbie to the seasoned pro, eventually print this seemingly simple little boat? Well, grab a coffee, and let’s talk about it.

The Benchmarking Boat (Yes, That’s What ‘Benchy’ Means)

First things first—despite its cute and harmless appearance, the Benchy is a test. It’s like a pop quiz for your 3D printer, and trust me, your printer will get graded. The Benchy is packed with tricky design elements that help expose a printer’s weak spots. Think of it as a fitness test for your machine, revealing everything from misaligned belts to wobbly layers.

That little boat has:
✔ Overhangs that test how well your printer can handle gravity (because, surprise, plastic droops if it doesn’t cool fast enough).
✔ Bridging sections that show how well your printer can print in mid-air without support.
✔ Tiny details like the logo and windows, which tell you if your machine can handle fine precision.
✔ A curved hull that exposes issues with layer shifting, warping, and inconsistent extrusion.

And that’s just scratching the surface! If your Benchy comes out looking like a melted marshmallow or a modern art sculpture, well… your printer needs some work. But hey, at least you’ll know where to start, right?

Testing Filaments: Because Not All Plastic is Created Equal

Beyond checking if your printer is properly dialed in, the Benchy is also great for testing different types of filament.

PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU—sounds like a jumble of letters, but these are just different types of 3D printing materials, each with its own quirks. Some are flexible, some are tough, and some will make you question all your life choices because they refuse to stick to the bed. Printing a Benchy in a new filament helps you figure out if it plays nice with your machine before you commit to a huge print.

And let’s be honest, sometimes you just want to see how a new color looks in the real world. Maybe you found a sick neon green filament or a silky rainbow spool, and you need to know if it lives up to the hype. Benchy is small, quick to print, and doesn’t waste a ton of material—perfect for a filament test drive.

Speed vs. Quality: The Never-Ending Battle

Another fun thing about Benchy? You can use it to experiment with different print speeds. If you’re the type who likes to get a model printed yesterday, you might try cranking up the speed to see how much your machine can handle before the quality takes a nosedive.

Some printers can zip through a Benchy in under 30 minutes. Others take their sweet time, producing a stunningly detailed version that looks like it belongs in a museum. Either way, it’s a fun way to find that sweet spot between “fast enough” and “doesn’t look like a blob.”

Because… It’s Just Cute

At the end of the day, even if you’re not troubleshooting or testing filament, Benchy is just adorable. It’s a tiny boat, and who doesn’t love tiny things? People have entire collections of Benchies in different colors, materials, and sizes. Some even print them at ridiculous scales—there’s an ongoing challenge in the community to print the world’s smallest and largest Benchy. (Spoiler: Someone printed one smaller than a grain of rice. Madness.)

It’s also a fun desk ornament, a perfect little gift, or even a way to flex your printing skills. Ever tried printing a multi-color Benchy? That’s a whole new level of cool.

The Bottom Line: Every Printer Needs a Benchy

Whether you’re diagnosing print issues, testing new filament, pushing your speed limits, or just adding to your tiny boat fleet, the Benchy is the go-to print. It’s been around for years, and it’s not going anywhere. And honestly? Printing one feels like a little badge of honor. You did it. You’re officially in the club.

So, tell me—have you printed a Benchy yet? And if so, how’d it turn out? Did it float? (Spoiler: It totally doesn’t.) Let’s chat in the comments!

If you want to read a little bit more about our first Bency, you can find the blogpost about it here: https://blog.layerminter.com/2025/01/17/the-journey-began/

Or if you are only interested in the timelapse video, you can watch it here: https://youtu.be/2Kyx_m7tAbM?si=utvrhlqwuHPQrwuw

Show me your p00p!

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“Show me your poop!”—not exactly a phrase you’d expect to hear in everyday conversation. But in the 3D printing community, it’s completely normal! If you’re new to 3D printing, you might be wondering what this unusual phrase means. Well, it’s all about waste filament, often referred to as “3D printer poop.”

Why Does 3D Printing Create Waste Filament?

Additive manufacturing, which includes filament-based 3D printing (FDM), inevitably produces waste. There are several reasons why:

Nozzle Purging: Before and during prints, the printer cleans out old filament to ensure smooth extrusion.
Filament Changes: When switching colors or materials mid-print, leftover filament needs to be removed from the extruder and tubing.
Failed Prints: Not every print turns out perfectly—misprints, adhesion issues, or slicing errors can result in discarded plastic.
Brims, Rafts, and Supports: Many prints require extra structures for stability, which are later removed and thrown away.
Flow Calibration & Priming Lines: Some printers perform test extrusions at the start of a print to ensure proper flow and adhesion.

What Can You Do With Waste Filament?

Instead of throwing it away, many 3D printing enthusiasts look for ways to reuse or recycle waste filament. Some ideas include:

Recycling Programs: Certain companies accept used filament for recycling.
DIY Projects: Waste filament can be melted down for new creative projects or repurposed as small functional parts.
Filament Re-extrusion: With the right equipment, you can shred old filament and turn it into new spools. Although we need to tell you that it is a really expensive investment.

While waste is an inevitable part of 3D printing, finding ways to minimize and repurpose it can make the hobby more sustainable. So next time someone asks to see your “poop,” don’t be alarmed—they’re just curious about your latest 3D printing adventures!

Printing a Decorative Trash Can on the Bambu Lab X1C

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3D printing never ceases to amaze with its ability to turn digital designs into functional and aesthetic creations. This time, we put the Bambu Lab X1C to the test by printing a stylish and decorative trash can. The results? A smooth, precise, and beautifully crafted piece, all captured in a mesmerizing timelapse!

The Idea Behind the Print

Trash cans are often purely functional, but why not make them stylish as well? Whether for an office, a workshop, or a home setup, a well-designed trash can can be both practical and visually appealing. That’s why we decided to print this decorative model—combining form and function into a single print.

The Printing Process

For this print, we used the Bambu Lab X1C, a machine known for its speed, reliability, and advanced features. With its high-speed core motion system, LIDAR-assisted calibration, and AI-powered monitoring, the X1C ensures exceptional quality with minimal hassle.

The filament choice was important for achieving both durability and aesthetics. We opted for Sunlu PLA Blue, which provided a strong structure while maintaining a smooth finish.

The print time was approximately 9.5 hours, and thanks to the efficiency of the Bambu Lab X1C, the entire process went smoothly without any major issues. Layer adhesion was excellent, and the details of the design came out crisp and clean.

The Final Result

Once completed, the decorative trash can looked fantastic. The layers blended seamlessly, and the overall structure was sturdy. This print is a perfect example of how 3D printing can be used not just for small trinkets or prototypes, but also for functional household items that add a touch of personalization to any space.

Want to see the entire process in action? Check out the timelapse video below and watch the Bambu Lab X1C bring this design to life!

Details

Printer: Bambu Lab X1C
Model: Decorative office trash can (https://makerworld.com/en/models/39849#profileId-39264)
Nozzle: 0.4mm, hardened steel
Filament: Sunlu PLA Blue
Printing time: 9.5 hours
Bed temperature: 50 °C
Hotend temperature: 220 °C
Amount of filament used: 440 g
Trash filament generated: 0 g

BambuLab versus Community

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On January 16th, 2025, Bambu Lab announced a new firmware update designed to enhance the security of their machines by introducing a new authentication and authorization mechanism. While this is a positive step for security, it unfortunately comes with the drawback of limiting compatibility with many third-party software solutions, as they will no longer have access to the necessary APIs.

This decision has sparked significant frustration within the 3D printing community. Many users rely on third-party tools for their workflows, finding them more suitable than the official options.

For instance, Orca Slicer is a popular alternative to Bambu Studio due to its features and ease of use. However, following the update, Orca Slicer will no longer be able to send print jobs directly to Bambu Lab machines. This change has raised concerns among enthusiasts and professionals alike, who value the flexibility third-party tools provide.

It remains to be seen how Bambu Lab will address the community’s feedback, but it’s clear this update has prompted an important discussion about balancing security and user freedom.

You can find the official announcement on their website:

https://blog.bambulab.com/firmware-update-introducing-new-authorization-control-system-2

The journey began

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This week marks the beginning of our 3D printing adventure as our very first machine finally arrived! We placed the order back in early December 2024, but the holiday rush delayed its arrival. But let me tell you, it was worth the wait. The printer is absolutely perfect, and it was love at first sight. Assembly was a breeze, thanks to the clear and straightforward guide. After a quick calibration, we were ready to go, and the first print was a success!

Details of the print:

Printer: Bambu Lab X1C
Model: Benchy
Nozzle: 0.4mm, hardened steel
Filament: Bambu Lab PLA Basic Green
Printing time: 46 minutes
Bed temperature: 50 °C
Hotend temperature: 220 °C
Amount of filament used: 12 g
Trash filament generated: 0 g

You can find the short timelapse video on our YouTube channel: