Tag Archives: filament

Learning While Waiting: Exploring New 3D Printing Topics

Leave a reply

Even though our X1C was out of commission, we still wanted to keep the 3D printing spirit alive. So, we took this as an opportunity to dive deeper into the technology. Here are some fascinating topics we explored:

1. Advanced Slicer Settings

We thought we knew our slicer software pretty well, but there’s always more to learn! We dug into custom supports, variable layer heights, and optimizing print speeds for different materials. Let’s just say we’ve gained a new appreciation for how much slicing impacts print quality.

2. Filament Science: Beyond PLA and PETG

Sure, we’ve used plenty of PLA and PETG, but what about exotic filaments? We researched carbon fiber-infused filaments, TPU (for flexible prints), and even PEEK (which requires some serious heat). Now we can’t wait to experiment with them once our printer is back in action.

3. Multi-Material Printing and AMS Systems

Since the Bambu Lab X1C has an Automatic Material System (AMS), we took some time to really understand how it works and how to get the best out of multi-material printing. Turns out, there are so many creative possibilities—like printing in different colors without swapping spools manually.

4. Post-Processing Techniques

We also explored different ways to make prints look even better after they come off the bed. From sanding and painting to vapor smoothing for ABS, there’s a whole world of finishing techniques we can’t wait to try.

Summary

3d printing is an incredible technology which requires knowledge in many different topics. It is crucial to be up to date in most of them. What we can advise is to keep up with them.

The Ultimate Guide to 3D Printing Filaments: What’s Best for Your Prints?

Leave a reply

So, you’re diving into the world of 3D printing and wondering, “What’s the best filament for my prints?” Well, you’ve come to the right place! Choosing the right filament can make or break your print, and trust me, I’ve had my fair share of spaghetti messes and warped disasters. Let’s go over the most common types, what they’re good for, and whether they’ll be a dream or a nightmare to work with.

Note: the post contains affiliate links for filaments!

PLA – The Friendly Favorite

  • Bed Temperature: 50-60°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 180-220°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Very (biodegradable, corn-based)
  • Drying Need: Low, but benefits from occasional drying
  • Drying Temperature: 40-50°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
  • User Friendliness: Extremely easy—perfect for beginners

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is like the golden retriever of filaments—friendly, reliable, and always there when you need it. It prints easily, doesn’t require a heated bed (though it helps), and sticks well to most surfaces. It’s biodegradable, which is a nice plus for the eco-conscious crowd. However, it’s not the toughest filament out there; leave a PLA print in your car on a hot summer day, and you’ll come back to a warped mess.

Buy PLA from Amazon

Buy PLA from Sunlu

PETG – The Best of Both Worlds

  • Bed Temperature: 60-80°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 220-250°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Decent (recyclable, but not biodegradable)
  • Drying Need: Medium (absorbs moisture over time)
  • Drying Temperature: 55-65°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
  • User Friendliness: Moderate—easier than ABS, trickier than PLA

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) is the middle ground between PLA and ABS. It’s stronger and more temperature-resistant than PLA, but much easier to print than ABS. PETG prints have a slight glossy finish, making them look premium right off the printer. The only downside? It’s stringier than a ball of yarn in a kitten’s paws, so dialing in retraction settings is key.

Buy PETG from Amazon

Buy PETG from Sunlu

ABS – The Strong, but Stubborn One

  • Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Not great (petroleum-based, not biodegradable)
  • Drying Need: Low
  • Drying Temperature: 70-75°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
  • User Friendliness: Difficult—prone to warping and fumes

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is strong, impact-resistant, and used in everything from LEGO bricks to car parts. It’s great for functional parts that need to take a beating, but it’s a bit of a diva when it comes to printing. Warping is a constant battle unless you have an enclosure, and the fumes? Let’s just say you’ll want a well-ventilated space unless you enjoy headaches.

Buy ABS from Amazon

Buy ABS from Sunlu

ASA – ABS’s Weatherproof Cousin

  • Bed Temperature: 90-110°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 230-260°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Not great (similar to ABS)
  • Drying Need: Low
  • Drying Temperature: 80-85°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
  • User Friendliness: Similar to ABS, but better for outdoor use

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) is basically ABS, but with a superpower—it’s UV-resistant. That means it won’t turn yellow or brittle when left outside, making it a top choice for outdoor prints like garden fixtures and car accessories. It prints similarly to ABS, so if you can handle one, you can handle the other.

Buy ASA from Amazon

Buy ASA from Sunlu

TPU – The Rubbery Rebel

  • Bed Temperature: 40-60°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 210-230°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Not great (plastic-based, but durable)
  • Drying Need: High (loves moisture)
  • Drying Temperature: 40-45°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 3-4h
  • User Friendliness: Challenging—flexible and tricky to feed

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is flexible, meaning you can print things like phone cases, shoe soles, and even squishy stress toys. But printing TPU is like trying to squeeze toothpaste through a straw—it can be a struggle. You’ll need slow print speeds and a direct drive extruder works best. Once dialed in, though, TPU prints are incredibly durable and fun to play with.

Buy TPU from Amazon

Buy TPU from Sunlu

Nylon – The Tough Guy with a Weakness

  • Bed Temperature: 40-100°C – depends on the type of nylon!, see manufacturer recommendation!
  • Hot End Temperature: 240-270°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Poor (synthetic, non-biodegradable)
  • Drying Need: Extremely high (absorbs moisture like a sponge)
  • Drying Temperature: 70-95°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 4-6h
  • User Friendliness: Hard—requires high temps and careful handling

Nylon is one of the strongest 3D printing filaments available. It’s flexible, impact-resistant, and great for functional parts. The downside? It absorbs moisture ridiculously fast, making drying before printing essential. If you print with damp nylon, expect your print to hiss and bubble like a frying pan—definitely not what you want.

Buy Nylon from Amazon

Buy Nylon from Sunlu

PC – The Ultimate Beast

  • Bed Temperature: 90-120°C
  • Hot End Temperature: 280-310°C
  • Nature Friendliness: Poor (industrial-grade plastic)
  • Drying Need: High
  • Drying Temperature: 80-90°C
  • Optimal Drying Length: 8-12h
  • User Friendliness: Extremely difficult—high temperatures required

PC (Polycarbonate) is the king of strength and heat resistance. It’s used in bulletproof glass, safety goggles, and other high-performance applications. Printing PC is not for the faint of heart—you need a printer that can handle temperatures up to ~300°C, and even then, warping is a constant challenge. But if you need a part that can take serious abuse, PC is your go-to.

Buy PC from Amazon

Buy PC from Sunlu

So, What’s the Best Filament for You?

If you’re just getting started, PLA is your best bet—it’s easy and forgiving. If you want something tougher, go for PETG. Need something strong and impact-resistant? ABS or ASA are solid choices (if you can handle the fumes). Want to print squishy stuff? TPU is your friend. And if you’re after high-performance materials, Nylon and PC are the power players—but be ready for a challenge.

Buy Filaments from Sunlu

Show me your p00p!

Leave a reply

“Show me your poop!”—not exactly a phrase you’d expect to hear in everyday conversation. But in the 3D printing community, it’s completely normal! If you’re new to 3D printing, you might be wondering what this unusual phrase means. Well, it’s all about waste filament, often referred to as “3D printer poop.”

Why Does 3D Printing Create Waste Filament?

Additive manufacturing, which includes filament-based 3D printing (FDM), inevitably produces waste. There are several reasons why:

  • Nozzle Purging: Before and during prints, the printer cleans out old filament to ensure smooth extrusion.
  • Filament Changes: When switching colors or materials mid-print, leftover filament needs to be removed from the extruder and tubing.
  • Failed Prints: Not every print turns out perfectly—misprints, adhesion issues, or slicing errors can result in discarded plastic.
  • Brims, Rafts, and Supports: Many prints require extra structures for stability, which are later removed and thrown away.
  • Flow Calibration & Priming Lines: Some printers perform test extrusions at the start of a print to ensure proper flow and adhesion.

What Can You Do With Waste Filament?

Instead of throwing it away, many 3D printing enthusiasts look for ways to reuse or recycle waste filament. Some ideas include:

  • Recycling Programs: Certain companies accept used filament for recycling.
  • DIY Projects: Waste filament can be melted down for new creative projects or repurposed as small functional parts.
  • Filament Re-extrusion: With the right equipment, you can shred old filament and turn it into new spools. Although we need to tell you that it is a really expensive investment.

While waste is an inevitable part of 3D printing, finding ways to minimize and repurpose it can make the hobby more sustainable. So next time someone asks to see your “poop,” don’t be alarmed—they’re just curious about your latest 3D printing adventures!